Not too long ago Tod Rafferty wrote a piece in which he intimated that France is the best country for motorcyclists. As a resident of the country that is France’s oldest and closest enemy, I feel I am duty-bound to inform you that, with all due respect to Tod, his assertion is codswallop.

Yes, codswallop. Tommyrot. Poppycock. Flapdoodle. I’m sorry to use such strong language. But if you’re anywhere east of the Atlantic Ocean, it’s Her Majesty’s United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland you want to be visiting.

Britain is home to civilised riding. That's civilised with a 'S,' thank you.

Britain is home to civilised riding. That’s civilised with a ‘S,’ thank you.

I’m from America, but have lived in the UK – in Wales, specifically – for roughly a decade. I often pine for Minnesota thunderstorms and Texas cooking, but one thing that keeps me from going back home is knowing how much I’ll miss motorcycling here.

Germany (or possibly the United States) may be able to claim to have made the first motorcycle, but the UK is the country that made motorcycling. Triumph, Norton, Vincent, Brough Superior, and dozens of other great names. The rockers (and mods), the ton-up boys, the Isle of Man TT heroes, and adventurers like Ted Simon, Elspeth Beard, and, of course, Ewan McGregor and Charlie Boorman. Eric Gardner, the man who invented the crash helmet. Geoff Duke, the first man to wear a one-piece leather racing suit. Café racers and streetfighters. It all started here.

Britain is home to the iconic Ace Cafe, one of the central meeting spots during the original cafe racer movement. These days it is a motorcycle Mecca of sorts, drawing riders from all over the world.
Dirt Quake, an event that encourages people to race flat track on any bike of their choosing, started in the English county of Norfolk. The trendsetting event has since spread to the United States via Dirt Quake USA.

Dirt Quake, an event that encourages people to race flat track on any bike of their choosing, started in the English county of Norfolk. The trendsetting event has since spread to the United States via Dirt Quake USA.

British roads can be very narrow. Sometimes a motorcycle is your only option.

British roads can be very narrow. Sometimes a motorcycle is your only option.

Motorcycling runs in British blood. It is a part of the people’s history, a part of their present, and, as roads grow ever more congested, very much a part of their future. Just last month, MO reported sales of commuter-sized bikes are at an all-time high in the UK. That’s not surprising. I’ve driven in Houston, Los Angeles, Boston and Manhattan, and I assure you: no American has seen traffic congestion of the sort experienced in London or Manchester. Motorcycles are allowed to filter (a.k.a., lane split) in the UK, which means they are generally the best way to ensure you’ll show up on time.

Additionally, a motorcycle-friendly culture means toll roads are often free or discounted. In most cities, motorcyclists are allowed to use bus lanes. Parking lots and parking garages usually have allocated free spaces for motorcycles, and many offer locks and helmet storage.

Police enforcement of speed limits is rare, and on the occasion officers do post themselves roadside they take a relaxed view, disinclined to stop anyone going less than 30 mph over the limit. By and large, though, authorities leave speed enforcement to our machine overlords. Around cities, radar cameras are the scourge of British motorways (a.k.a. “freeways”), but the good news is: those cameras are almost all forward-facing. A motorcycle has no forward plate.

If British motorcyclists can't find any nearby free parking they will simply park on the sidewalk (a.k.a. "pavement"). A quirk of British law classifies motorcycles as bicycles for tax purposes, so savvy riders park near bicycle racks.

If British motorcyclists can’t find any nearby free parking they will simply park on the sidewalk (a.k.a. “pavement”). A quirk of British law classifies motorcycles as bicycles for tax purposes, so savvy riders park near bicycle racks.

Meanwhile, the good ol’ British punk spirit means many cameras will be damaged – lenses smashed or spraypainted – by locals who hate them more than you. Especially in parts of Scotland and Wales where nationalists see rules as a form of English oppression.

Seaside villages and towns (such as Aberystwyth, pictured here) encourage motorcyclists to park on the seafront promenade, feeling the bikes' presence adds to the atmosphere.

Seaside villages and towns (such as Aberystwyth, pictured here) encourage motorcyclists to park on the seafront promenade, feeling the bikes’ presence adds to the atmosphere.

Roundabouts provide a handy place to practice cornering. This one in Penarth, where I live, is a favorite of teenagers on 125cc bikes, who like to whip around it and try to get a knee down.

Roundabouts provide a handy place to practice cornering. This one in Penarth, where I live, is a favorite of teenagers on 125cc bikes, who like to whip around it and try to get a knee down.

Outside of urban areas, roads are generally free flowing. Off the beaten path, Britain’s narrow B roads and country lanes make it seem as if it was built for motorcyclists. In truth, it was built for horses and carts by Roman soldiers; it’s simply that no one since has put in effort to widen the roads. In my wife’s native Devon, roads leading to her father’s house are so narrow that hedgerows scrape both sides of a car.

It’s a situation that plays to a motorcycle’s size, allowing you to explore nooks and crannies that are effectively inaccessible to cars. Well, assuming your motorcycle is set up with good suspension. There’s a reason the BMW R1200GS (including the GSA) is the best-selling big bike in Britain. Followed closely by the Yamaha FJ-09 (known as the MT-09 Tracer over here). The country’s best-selling Suzuki (V-Strom 1000) and Triumph (Tiger 800) are also adventure-styled.

Some roads, like this one in Lake District National Park, are less than well-maintained but worth it for the scenery.

Some roads, like this one in Lake District National Park, are less than well-maintained but worth it for the scenery.

Riding in Wales will lead to visiting a lot of castles. I mean, a lot: Wales is home to more fortresses and castles than any other country in the world.

Riding in Wales will lead to visiting a lot of castles. I mean, a lot: Wales is home to more fortresses and castles than any other country in the world.

That’s not to say all the roads are awful. Routes known as “A roads” are generally in good condition and offer plenty of opportunity for engaging and spirited riding. FYI, “spirited” is British motorcycling code for “in excess of the speed limit.” Especially in Scotland in Wales.

One of the real advantages of British geography is the fact this place is so small. Run top to bottom (John o’ Groats to Land’s End) in less than a day and you’ll still need to ride a quarter of the way back to earn an Iron Butt badge. So, everything is close. Long, boring, tire-squaring rides on the interstate aren’t necessary for great riding.

The Cat and Fiddle Road, a popular riding destination in Peak District National Park.

The Cat and Fiddle Road, a popular riding destination in Peak District National Park.

No point in Britain is more than 75 miles from the sea.

No point in Britain is more than 75 miles from the sea.

Okay, it’s true what they say about the weather. It rains. If you’re one of those people who refuses to ride in the wet, you should probably stay in Arizona. The good news is that, except in winter, it doesn’t tend to rain very heavily or for very long. Besides, wearing waterproof gear isn’t uncomfortable because temperatures rarely exceed 75º F. Every few years we’ll get a day in July that hits 90º F and they treat it with the same sense of alarm and confusion as Houstonians do snow: cancelling school, closing offices, panic-buying things from grocery stores, etc.

In the case of Britons, though, the thing they’re buying is booze. This speaks to an aspect of Britain that helps one overcome the wet weather, an aspect that makes this such a great country to ride in: British people. Quirky, irreverent, foul-mouthed and quick-witted, they are a people who know how to have fun. British motorcyclists in particular.

British weather is not always awful.

British weather is not always awful.

John Burns has written a few times about the feeling of asking oneself: “Why doesn’t somebody take this thing away from me?” The feeling that we motorcyclists are somehow pulling off a great trick on the universe, that we’re getting away with something: “Whee! Somebody’s slapped some wheels on this metal box of explosions and I’m going to sit on it! Ha-ha!”

That spirit is strong in British riders. They are mischievous and silly, and happy in their silliness. We Americans often feel need to make what we do seem more important than it is; we don’t just go on a group ride, we Ride in Support of America’s Military Heroes. You don’t tend to see that sort of thing here. Britons possess a sense of adventure that they don’t seek to justify or rationalize. After all, it was a Brit, George Mallory, who said he wanted to climb Mount Everest simply “because it’s there.”

I met these Brits waiting for a ferry across the English Channel. I had been taking photos of the ship and they came running at me shouting: "Photo bomb!"

I met these Brits waiting for a ferry across the English Channel. I had been taking photos of the ship and they came running at me shouting: “Photo bomb!”

Drier and flatter than areas on the westerns side of Britain, East Anglia offers fast roads and incredible summer sunsets.

Drier and flatter than areas on the westerns side of Britain, East Anglia offers fast roads and incredible summer sunsets.

I can give you plenty of reasons to come to Britain. Americans are generally well-liked. Everyone speaks English (though, the Welsh appreciate when you use the greeting: “S’mae”). Drivers are better than those found in California, Italy or Spain. You can’t drop a bike without hitting some historical something or other. The food is far better than some would lead you to believe, especially if you like pork. And the quality of the ale will help you not care either way.

But the real reason, of course, is simply that it’s here. It’s odd and it’s beautiful, but most importantly – and they’ve fought wars to prove this – it’s better than France.

My wife's selfie from the back of my bike as we rode the southern coast.

My wife’s selfie from the back of my bike as we rode the southern coast.

 

 

Glossary
A road: Two-lane highway
B road: Small, sometimes single-lane, highway
Bevvy: Any alcoholic drink (usually beer)
Caf’: Greasy spoon diner
Carpark: Parking lot
Country lane: Tiny public road an American would refuse to drive on
Cuppa: Tea
Dual carriageway: Freeway
Filter: Lane split
Give it some welly: Pick up the pace
Lollipop man/lady: Crossing guard
Motorway: Interstate
Overtake: To pass (another road user)
Pavement: Sidewalk
Petrol: Gasoline
Pint: Beer
Roadside cafe: Burger van
Rozzers: Police
Satnav: GPS
Tyres: Tires
Zebra crossing: Crosswalk
  • allworld

    I haven’t ridden in the UK or France, but I do own 3 Triumphs and have never owned a French motorcycle. :)

    • Steve T

      That’s because the French don’t know how to build one.

  • DickRuble

    Yeap, East of the Atlantic and West of France, Britain is the best place to ride, unless you’re in Ireland.

  • Alexander Pityuk

    Looks like we’re going to have “riding in…” series of journalists’ battles. I like that!

  • Goose

    I’ve visited, but not ridden in, both England and France. All I can add is that if which great country I should ride in was a big question in my life I’d be having a pretty great life.

  • Michael McBlane

    Great fun article. Thanks.

  • Racing Enthusiast

    Loved the 2 years I spent there – but that was back when the really good 2 strokes were still available (RD500LC, etc…).

    By the way, please compare prices of new motorcycles (Isn’t the VAT great?) and petrol. I don’t miss that.

  • DickRuble

    There’s one more benefit that that UK bikers have over the US ones: free healthcare.

  • Andy C

    The first part gives me the feeling of “Where to Invade Next”. Why can’t America take some of these progressive, pro-motorcycling stances and apply them here? If this country values freedom so much why are other countries treating their m-bikers so much better?

  • http://www.keywestdiary.com Michael Conchscooter

    Nice write up. Makes me feel nostalgic for the adventures of my youth.

  • Tod Rafferty

    Gotta admit the beer is better, but they still ride on the wrong side. England is charming (no easy admission for an Irishman), but for roads it comes in behind Spain, France, Italy, Germany and Austria. Also, you’ll find some damn good pilsner in Czechoslovakia.

    • Steve T

      I think you’ll find that we ride on the correct side of the road. :)

  • Steve T

    Such a good write up. I am a born and bred Englishman and love welcoming people from abroad to my beautiful country. Especially the bit where they ride on the wrong side of the road.