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psciv 03-26-2003 03:07 PM

Re: 12 Point Bolts....
I know that everyone is saying use leverage, and that is a good thing. While putting about 6 feet of pipe on the wrench is a good start, you can try one more thing- Hit the top of the socket with a large hammer (4 lbs or so), while applying lots of force to the wrench. Impact while turning is good, so big impact while turning is...? Also, and this sounds scary, but drill a small (about 1/8th") hole, just deep enough to pass the depth of the head. This should relieve stress on the bolt head, while maintaining integrity in the bolt. Plus, when you strip it out, you now have a starting point for the extractor!

Blade-Rider 03-26-2003 03:22 PM

How about dribbling some liquid refrigerant on the bolt heads? It should make the metal bolt contract slightly.

Joe Rider

crankin500 03-26-2003 03:36 PM

Re: 12 Point Bolts....
I was hoping that they were not external torx. I really, really hope they are not internal torx (similar to an "allen" head bolt but more spline like). If they are internal torx, do not continue unless you have a high quality torx bit. Real tool steel like Snap-on, Mac or Matco, not Taiwan or other cheapo stuff. 12 point bolts are just like regular old 6 points but with a smaller 12 point head. They work very well and are strong despite their smaller heads, when using a quality, proper fitting socket. I cringe at the thought of a torx head bolt fastening anything besides the plastic trim on my cars dashboard.

RonXX 03-26-2003 04:00 PM

I would avoid using a refrigerant on the bolts because it will likely cool them so much that they fracture when a lot of force is applied.

I hope you have already tried this: have someone hold the bit in place and whack the end of the breaker bar in the same direction you need to rotate it to loosen the bolt. I would use a medium size hammer (small sledge/engineer's hammer). It is important to apply as much force as you can with your free hand before smiting the end of the bar. This is obvious though, so I'm sure you tried it.

Anyway, what's it like to be a traitor to your country? Why don't you go out and buy a Ford in order to reclaim your status as an American?

sarnali 03-26-2003 04:02 PM

Piece 'o' cake my son, being a steam engineer I deal with frozen bolts all the time, soak the bolts with some good industreal penetrating oil like sea-air, or crc 3-36, put a good size punch in the center of each bolt and whack the ***** out of it with a hammer, soak it down again, then go drink a bunch of Coors, fall asleep with your boots on, wake up, stagger out to the garage, use the right size torx bit and the bolts will jump out on their own. works every time.

GogglesPaisano 03-26-2003 04:26 PM

"Anyway, what's it like to be a traitor to your country? Why don't you go out and buy a Ford in order to reclaim your status as an American?"

So sayeth the man whose nickname implies japanese motorcycle ownership. Not to mention ye olde Benz was likely bought used from an American.


Vlad 03-26-2003 04:28 PM

In pure desperation
Indeed, this seems the best solution. I have used it several times myself. The vise grip usually works. Other than that, coat the bolts with the secret mixture of WD40 and rabbit semen. The bolts will jump out of the holes.


DaveFla 03-26-2003 04:42 PM


JB, crankin500 had the best answer so far. My recent experience is with the T-50 headed seat belt retainers in my '93 GMC pickup.</p>

After peeling the splines off of three el cheapo auto parts store bits, I went for the Snap-On catalog and found a "T-50 GM Style" bit for $25. The flutes of the bit appear to be forged rather than having been cut after casting.</p>

I still had to drill one of mine out after stripping the bolt head, an experience I imagine you'd rather miss. Get a good bit or two and the tightest fit in the head you can manage.</p>

DaveFla 03-26-2003 04:47 PM

Hot tip: once I got the dogs**t factory fasteners out, I replaced them with grade 5 stainless hex heads... hope that's an option for you, too.

HighsideHarry 03-26-2003 04:51 PM

Re: 12 Point Bolts....
Best suggestion I've read so far!

Hitting the top of the bolt while applying torque allows the threads to separate from the tapped hole for a microsecond, and usually is all that's needed for the job.

I once got a interference-fit tapered flywheel off using this method. The SOB was held on by a 1 1/2" nut and "ringing" it was the only method that worked.

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