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-   -   SV650 Help... (http://www.motorcycle.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7263)

Mayz945 02-12-2008 06:27 PM

SV650 Help...
 
Hey, I just got a 1999 SV650 but it wont start. It wont even turn when I click the starter button... no sound at all. I jumped it and rode it fine but it wont start on its own. I thought it might be the battery so I got a new one... still nothing. Any idea what the problem could be?

Someone told me water gets into the front plug on this model when it rains... would this prevent it from even making a sound when I push the button?

Please let me know what you think.

Thanks!

seruzawa 02-12-2008 06:40 PM

Could be the starting switch is corroded or broken. Could be the starter solenoid. Or it could be the starter itself. Maybe a blown fuse.

You really need a manual. It'll pay for itself real fast.

Mayz945 02-12-2008 06:44 PM

Could it really be the starter if it starts when I jump it? Also how expensive will a starting switch, starter solenoid, or a blown fuse cost me if that is the problem?

So it cant be the plug?

sachiwilson 02-12-2008 06:49 PM

No, it won't be the plug. If it was the plug your bike would run on one cylinder.

The reason Seru suggested the starter, starter solenoid, or switch was because your bike ran fine if you bumped it. You don't need any of those to bump start a bike. So, you should start checking to see where the disconnection is. If it started well and then just *stopped* starting, particularly if it's been wet outside, I'd suspect the switch, myself.

You can go find the prices for those items yourself.

Kenneth_Moore 02-12-2008 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mayz945 (Post 178762)
Could it really be the starter if it starts when I jump it? Also how expensive will a starting switch, starter solenoid, or a blown fuse cost me if that is the problem?

So it cant be the plug?

No, it can't be the spark plug. The bike wouldn't run well on a jump start if it were the plug. It's also unlikely that it's the starter switch, solenoid, or starter, since apparently they work when there is sufficient voltage and amps.

If you have or can borrow a multimeter, put it in the DC Volts mode. Put the wires on the battery terminals. Red positive, you know the deal. If it shows less than 12vdc, the battery is not getting a charge. Push start, or if you must, jumpstart the bike (BTW, do NOT jump the bike with a car battery when the car is running; it will burn the regulator. Only jump from another bike or with the car turned off). When the bike is running, put the multi meter on the battery again. You must see no less than 13 volts, 14.5 would be more like it as the revs go up. If you don't, the stator (like a generator/alternator) and/or regulator are broken, they have a bad connection or possibly fuses are out. I'd put $20 on a burned regulator, probably the previous owner was jumping the bike with a car when the original battery died and fried it with too many amps.

"Throwing parts" at the problem can add up fast. If you're not familiar with troubleshooting electrical systems, it's better to get help. Ask around for a reasonable shop to go to. Push start the bike, ride it in, and get a mechanic to look at it. A decent mech will find the problem in less than 30 minutes. Even at $60-$80 an hour, that's cheap compared to a few hundred for the wrong parts. If you need the stator changed out, it's probably not a job you want to do anyway. Most regulators are easy to get to, maybe you can do that one yourself. But, you're going to buying the parts anyway, so a little extra for labor to get it right is money well spent. Few things suck more than having to get your date to push start your bike in high heels.

Mayz945 02-13-2008 01:44 PM

The thing is, it wont even run-start... I guess I should of mentioned that. Does that narrow anything down?

Kenneth_Moore 02-13-2008 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mayz945 (Post 178812)
The thing is, it wont even run-start... I guess I should of mentioned that. Does that narrow anything down?

Yes, it means the battery is so utterly dead that the fuel injection system isn't getting pressurized. Are you sure about that battery? Did it get an overnight charge before it went into the bike?

Jump start it and check the voltage with the bike running. Look for 13+ VDC.

Mayz945 02-13-2008 02:07 PM

I am positive about the battery. I bought it new off-line and it was charged and shipped in less than 5 days. Also the light never lit up brighter so the battery is brand new.

Maybe something else?

Kenneth_Moore 02-13-2008 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mayz945 (Post 178814)
I am positive about the battery. I bought it new off-line and it was charged and shipped in less than 5 days. Also the light never lit up brighter so the battery is brand new.

Maybe something else?

Ok, you're going to have to get serious here:

1. Drain all fluids from the bike and store in clean containers, including the gas.

2. Submerge the motorcycle in salt water for 36-48 hours. 48 for normal ocean sailinity, 36 for brackish or Gulf of Mexico waters.

3. Remove the motorcycle and dry with high pressure air.

4. Discard the motorcycle.

seruzawa 02-13-2008 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenneth_Moore (Post 178815)
Run the multimeter tests. See what you have there. Here's a thought: most of the DC circuits would work if the battery is in backwards. The starter would be an exception.

It's really weird that the battery wouldn't kick it over but hooking up jumper cables will. It could be that the battery is bad and that it appears to be fully charged when unloaded, but can't drive the starter. But such a battery probably wouldn't drive the lights.

Does the headlight come on when the key is turned on? Do the flashers, etc work with the key on?

Try cleaning the terminals where they contact the battery with a stiff wire brush until they shine.


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