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Old 10-18-2010, 10:05 AM   #11
The_AirHawk
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By '05 it was Fool-injected, right? I'd deffo drain the tank, and run some seafoam or Berryman's B-12 through it, and replace any fuel-filters. It goes without-saying that the battery is a paperweight. Replace it with a gel or AGM battery (Absorbed Glass Mat) - these are sealed, and leakproof. Cost a little more, but not having to worry about battery-acid leaks and vapours is MORE than worth it.

Also - be on the lookout for rodent-damage to wiring, cables, and hoses (not to mention nests in the exhaust and airbox/underseat/undertank). Probably wouldn't hurt to acquire a new set of tires, and maybe a chain and sprocket, too.

Otherwise; knock yerself out.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pushrod View Post
If there are any appreciable rust 'zits' on the tubes, do not jounce the forks until you have taken some emery cloth and 'sanded' the tubes smooth.

Sand the tubes with an up and down action, not like you're trying to start a fire with a stick. No pressure, and maybe some WD-40. You don't want to 'cut' the tubes, just make them smooth.

If you do push the tubes down before you smooth them, you will almost certainly ruin the seals.

The bike sounds like a good deal.

Apparently it's an F.I. bike, so try not to turn it on until you have drained the tank and put in fresh fuel and maybe a good dose of SeaFoam or Chevron Techron FI cleaner.
Actually, you DO want to use a "shoe-shine-boy" method when polishing the forks - I'd use a 600-grit or higher wetordry - just wet the paper an' fold it lengthwise to about 1-1/2" wide, don't use a lot of pressure. Once it's shiny, run your hands over it - if you feel any raised-spots, hit that again until they're smooth.

It shouldn't be necessary to re-fold the paper unless it's "loaded up" with garbage - just because you can't "feel" it cutting, doesn't mean it isn't. You don't want to sand-through the chrome, if you can help it - just remove the rust and any high-spots that have broken-through the plating.

Afterward, lube it real-good with the WD-40 or whatever light oil you have, and wipe that off well & spray it again.

The reason you go "back and forth" rather than "up and down" has to do with the surface-pattern of the scratches you're making: any bits of crud will be picked-up an essentially "shoved out of the way" as the seal glides-back and forth across scratches that are perpendicular to its travel. If the scratches are parallel to the line of travel, debris can be lodged-beneath the seal, and dragged back-and-forth, damaging heavily the seal and the stanchion-tube surface.

Eventually, you are probably going to have to replace the seals on this bike. Not a big problem, if you've got a modicum of mechanical-sense and a few tools.
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Old 10-18-2010, 04:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pushrod View Post
If there are any appreciable rust 'zits' on the tubes, do not jounce the forks until you have taken some emery cloth and 'sanded' the tubes smooth.

Sand the tubes with an up and down action, not like you're trying to start a fire with a stick. No pressure, and maybe some WD-40. You don't want to 'cut' the tubes, just make them smooth.

If you do push the tubes down before you smooth them, you will almost certainly ruin the seals.

The bike sounds like a good deal.

Apparently it's an F.I. bike, so try not to turn it on until you have drained the tank and put in fresh fuel and maybe a good dose of SeaFoam or Chevron Techron FI cleaner.
As always, good advice Pushrod!
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