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Old 08-27-2007, 01:15 PM   #1
Kenneth_Moore
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The other day I rode the Concours by the local bike shop to get some oil. I purchased some Honda Synthetic. The guy at the counter asked what I was putting it in, and I told him the old Kawi. He became quite alarmed and started telling me a list of problems I’d have with the synthetic oil, including bearing slip, ring failure, and leaking. I didn’t dare tell him the previous owner had run the bike for years on Castrol Syntec car oil, I figured he’d blow a fuse. I damn sure didn’t tell him I’d been using Mobil 1 in the old Shovelhead for years; I’ve gotten crap about that from various “experts” since I started using it.

I’ve never had an oil related failure in any bike. Has anyone else heard these horror stories on synthetic oil? Do you put any stock in them?
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:58 PM   #2
longride
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Originally Posted by Kenneth_Moore View Post
The other day I rode the Concours by the local bike shop to get some oil. I purchased some Honda Synthetic. The guy at the counter asked what I was putting it in, and I told him the old Kawi. He became quite alarmed and started telling me a list of problems I’d have with the synthetic oil, including bearing slip, ring failure, and leaking. I didn’t dare tell him the previous owner had run the bike for years on Castrol Syntec car oil, I figured he’d blow a fuse. I damn sure didn’t tell him I’d been using Mobil 1 in the old Shovelhead for years; I’ve gotten crap about that from various “experts” since I started using it.

I’ve never had an oil related failure in any bike. Has anyone else heard these horror stories on synthetic oil? Do you put any stock in them?
Most people don't know shyt about oil, and just repeat what they hear from the last guy they talked to. I have oil arguments with a guy here at work who swears by straight weight oil. Anything else is crap to him. Change it often and filter it, and pretty much any oil will do the job. I will probably be tearing into my Twin-Cam this winter, and I will tell you how 30,000 miles on Mobil 1 worked. I used Mobil1 in my Shovel too. The crank bearings didn't slip, and it didn't leak any more oil than it did before. All B.S. with a capital 'B'. I swear by Mobil 1 15-50. It works great.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:11 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Kenneth_Moore View Post
The other day I rode the Concours by the local bike shop to get some oil. I purchased some Honda Synthetic. The guy at the counter asked what I was putting it in, and I told him the old Kawi. He became quite alarmed and started telling me a list of problems I’d have with the synthetic oil, including bearing slip, ring failure, and leaking. I didn’t dare tell him the previous owner had run the bike for years on Castrol Syntec car oil, I figured he’d blow a fuse. I damn sure didn’t tell him I’d been using Mobil 1 in the old Shovelhead for years; I’ve gotten crap about that from various “experts” since I started using it.

I’ve never had an oil related failure in any bike. Has anyone else heard these horror stories on synthetic oil? Do you put any stock in them?
If you think it works then it does!

Every oil horror story I've heard has been 4rd hand at a minimum. Joe heard from Bill whose cousin had an uncle.....Sounds like a good suggestion for the Myth Busters.

Actually I did have the rear end seal go on my GSX1100G after I put synthetic in it. But it had 60K miles on it with mineral oil. It might have been ready to go already.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:20 PM   #4
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30,000 miles and you have to tear it down?!?! Typical HD. I hate them!
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:48 PM   #5
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My buddy billy jo bob has a cousin, named clarance who heard from his buddy joe bell about a problem his uncle rob had when he switched from 30 weight motor oil to some new kinda oil made from soy beans and xanthan gum in his '49 mercury and all kinda hell broke loose when he was on i-60 and the motor almost dug its way to china via a self-made tunnel when the spin dart let loose and the johnson rod hit the sprag retainer. i told him it was probably the oil as you know nothins better that straight old 30 weight.
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:49 PM   #6
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I pay about 9 bucks a quart for Amsoil.

It will make my engine last forever, it provides the best mileage, and it makes me more attractive to the opposite sex.

If you have any objective evidence to the contrary keep it to yourself. Did I mention it costs 9 bucks a quart?
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:52 PM   #7
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I pay about 9 bucks a quart for Amsoil.

It will make my engine last forever, it provides the best mileage, and it makes me more attractive to the opposite sex.

If you have any objective evidence to the contrary keep it to yourself. Did I mention it costs 9 bucks a quart?
I'm paying about that for the Honda oil, and about $5/qt. for Mobil 1 when I get a case. The big thing for me is there is a measurable drop in engine temp, which is a big deal during summer in FL.

BTW: My johnson rod was hitting the sprag retainer this very weekend! It was great!
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:33 PM   #8
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In the most basic of terms: There's very little difference. They (oil comanies) add compounds to m/c oil that allow for less wear on internals and clutch plates. That's really all the difference. Most synth oils (even car oils) are far superior than traditional oils. I have known many Mobil 1 users that have never seen an oil related break-down. I use Repsol Semi-Synth but I know many that use Shell or Castrol synth auto oil for their tour bikes and have not had any mechanical failures in their bikes history. To me, the auto vs m/c oil is all bunk. Just like all technologies, oils have advanced to a stage where you really can't make a bad choice anymore. Buy what you want.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:55 PM   #9
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30,000 miles and you have to tear it down?!?! Typical HD. I hate them!
Have to? No. Want to? Yes. 95" kit and cams. Not anything astonishing.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:16 AM   #10
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Hmmm... I recommend using same type of oil the bike manufacturer recommends as I have heard of clutch plate failures with wrong oil. Many use car oils succesfully, but the fact is they don’t necesarily cater for clutch as the car clutch is dry.

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