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Old 06-04-2010, 06:56 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by MOKE1K View Post
Good choice Ken and your right about the two filters the OEM filter much finer particles. I have seen more thanone warranty claim turned down by way of the frame filters. Meaning they just say well if you would have used the recommended filter your problem would not have occured.
Fram filters were superior 40 years ago. But the technology has changed since then.

Still, denying warranty claims because someone uses a Fram filter is just a cheapshyt way for a manufacturer to get out of fixing its lemons.
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:51 PM   #32
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That or either it's a way to offset all the loss due to missleading claims and alot of whinning on the customers end.
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Old 06-04-2010, 05:05 PM   #33
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Thanks for the input guys, I'll stay with the correct part number. I was also curious if the paper may break down with 4 stroke oil. I always have used Fram & Purolator in my cars, but went to the dealer for the bike. The manual calls for only changing the filter every other oil change but I've always changed it when I drain the oil.
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:35 PM   #34
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If there is one thing I don't follow when it comes to a manufacture "suggested" procedure its replacing the filter every other oil change.

Last edited by MOKE1K : 06-04-2010 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:07 PM   #35
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OK, just finished with my second and last attempt to change my oil.

With the proper wrench I was able to get the oil filter loose. The problem is, I have Cobra engine guards. Between the radiator, frame and engine guards there was not enough clearance in any direction to get the oil filter out once I got it off the housing. It looks like I will have to remove the radiator or the engine guards to be able to replace the filter. Not knowing the correct torque to tighten the bolts to, and the engine guards serve a safety purpose (I'm a new rider and at increased risk of dropping the bike- while I like the looks, I really got them to protect the bike and my leg should I drop), I really don't want to mess with that right now (not to mention, I don't have a socket wrench bit the right size- it would mean another stop at the store).

Luckily, the owners manual only calls for the filter to be changed every 3 oil changes (though I'm not sure if I'm comfortable with that). The others have all kinds of inspections, but once I get a service manual and can judge how hard some will be to do (i.e. do they require partially dismantling the engine like the valve inspection) I still may be able to do those myself. Eventually I may be willing to remove the engine guards or radiator for the oil filter (i.e. probably once I have the service manual and know exactly what to expect).

Oh well, looks like my weekend riding plans are over since I'll be taking it in tomorrow for the entire 600 mile service (it will be 50-60 miles over) instead of sometime in the next week or two for everything but the fluid changes. If I'm lucky I'll get it back on Monday . I haven't been on my bike since Sunday (since I was over the service interval and didn't want to push it further), I'm not sure I want to wait until Monday. I'm not sure the 10-15 miles to the closest Suzuki dealer will be enough. I may have to rent a bike or at least go to the HD dealer and go on a test ride (though being a former car salesman, I'm not sure I feel OK about a test ride when I have no intention to buy for the next 2-3 years).

Next time I buy a bike I will take a close look at the position of the oil filter (a part which should be easy to service on your own). It may have some bearing on what bike I buy, it will definitely have some bearing on whether I get engine guards for it again.

On a related note, getting under there and fiddling around did make me feel like I know my bike a lot better. I'm a little hesitant to just get down there and start taking things apart (I bought it new, I've only been riding it a month, and I haven't really done any work on my own cars so I don't have any mechanical experience). I'm getting very tempted to buy a $1000-1500 (or cheaper) early 1990s or late 1980s bike and a service manual just so I can get some practice working on bikes. I'm a teacher, I don't get paid over the summer, so while time-wise it would be the ideal time, it will need to wait a bit (unless I get lucky and get to teach summer school, which looks highly unlikely at this point). But maybe sometime before the end of the year.

Last edited by jeff10236 : 06-04-2010 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 06-06-2010, 08:36 PM   #36
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Magnussen-Moss act prevents them from denying a claim because of an "off brand" filter. THAT said, I would avoid them orange-painted cans like they were the Zombie Plague. They aren't The Shizznit - just Shyte.

I like Wix, with EMGO a good close second (for motos).

Don't buy anything but the oil at Mal~Wart, and avoid that even if you can...........

Buy any good-quality oil that fits the viscosity-range, that you like - if you use "car oil" avoid using API "Energy Conserving" oils, as the additive package can cause wet-type clutches to slip.

Change it as often as you feel comfortable changing it - synthetics will net you a bit-longer drain-intervals.

If you're out on a long moto-trip, and suddenly realize you're gonna go-over your oil-change interval, just F-Bomb'n wait 'til you get home to take care of it - 6000 miles on a change isn't gonna hurt any damn thing - this isn't the oil of the 1970's-'80s (or even the '90s!).

Have fun, don't make it a chore if you're going to do it yourself. If you can't derive a bit of pleasure and self-satisfaction from maintaining the bike yourself - farm it out to a Trusted Shop, and just ride the damn thing.

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