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Grizzly600 · 04-05-2010, 09:48 PM

Hi I'm new to the forum and looking for advice on if I should take my son's 2004 KTM 65 we just bought used into a dealer to have the fork seals replaced or is this something that I can do at home with standard tools? If so is there a step by step guide on how to do this if I choose to try doing it myself? Thanks

pushrod · 04-06-2010, 07:37 AM

As long as you can handle tools without hurting yourself on a regular basis, you should be good to go.

Other than possibly needing a special piece of PVC pipe for driving the new seal, the only 'special' tool might be an impact wrench. Assuming the fork damper rod is bolted from the bottom, it is helpful to use the slaphammer to bust the bolt loose, and then (more importantly) to get the initial torque when reinstalling.

You can also jam something into the other end to keep the rod from turning, but the above tool works great. Just don't put any real torque on the bolt with the impact. It should be done with a torque wrench.

Do a 'Net search for fork seal replacement. There will be many hits, and possibly a couple videos.

The_AirHawk · 04-06-2010, 08:31 AM

Here's a few:

http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/how...eals-3442.html

Fork Seal Replacement

Cycle Connections Magazine | Motorcycle Rides | Bike Rallies | Motorcycle Reviews | News

Avoid the "Leak Proof" brand like you would the Zombie Plague, lest ye wish to do this all-over again next week. Stick with OEM-type, even if they cost more. That money you "save" on the cheap-o's is a False Economy. Learn from my (and many others!) mistakes!

If you've got 41mm Stanchions, a 1-1/4" (IIRC - could be 1-1/2", check to be sure) PVC Coupler with the little "ridge" in the inside-middle whittled-out is the perfect size to drive the new seals in.

Any nicks or imperfections on stanchions should be polished-off, or you'll be doing this again. I've used a small, fine file (like one of those carbide-grit nail files) and 400-600grit sanding roll to completely "shoe-shine-boy" polish the stanchions before reassembly.

A dab of silicone-based grease on the inner seal lips (there's a brand called "syl-glyde" made specifically for it - but you don't have to use that) will also help to extend the life of your new seals.

Good Luck.

Grizzly600 · 04-06-2010, 03:14 PM

Thanks for the replies so far. I have checked the sites that were suggested and it gives me a better idea on what to expect.

04-05-2010, 09:48 PM	#1
Grizzly600 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 2	Fork Seals (04) KTM 65 Hi I'm new to the forum and looking for advice on if I should take my son's 2004 KTM 65 we just bought used into a dealer to have the fork seals replaced or is this something that I can do at home with standard tools? If so is there a step by step guide on how to do this if I choose to try doing it myself? Thanks

04-06-2010, 07:37 AM	#2
pushrod Founding Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Baja 'Bama Posts: 3,478	As long as you can handle tools without hurting yourself on a regular basis, you should be good to go. Other than possibly needing a special piece of PVC pipe for driving the new seal, the only 'special' tool might be an impact wrench. Assuming the fork damper rod is bolted from the bottom, it is helpful to use the slaphammer to bust the bolt loose, and then (more importantly) to get the initial torque when reinstalling. You can also jam something into the other end to keep the rod from turning, but the above tool works great. Just don't put any real torque on the bolt with the impact. It should be done with a torque wrench. Do a 'Net search for fork seal replacement. There will be many hits, and possibly a couple videos. __________________ You would not understand, this is not how I am... I have become - Comfortably Numb.

04-06-2010, 08:31 AM	#3
The_AirHawk Founding Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Livin' in a Van: down by the Mariana Trench Posts: 10,891	Here's a few: http://www.motorcycle.com/how-to/how...eals-3442.html Fork Seal Replacement Cycle Connections Magazine \| Motorcycle Rides \| Bike Rallies \| Motorcycle Reviews \| News Avoid the "Leak Proof" brand like you would the Zombie Plague, lest ye wish to do this all-over again next week. Stick with OEM-type, even if they cost more. That money you "save" on the cheap-o's is a False Economy. Learn from my (and many others!) mistakes! If you've got 41mm Stanchions, a 1-1/4" (IIRC - could be 1-1/2", check to be sure) PVC Coupler with the little "ridge" in the inside-middle whittled-out is the perfect size to drive the new seals in. Any nicks or imperfections on stanchions should be polished-off, or you'll be doing this again. I've used a small, fine file (like one of those carbide-grit nail files) and 400-600grit sanding roll to completely "shoe-shine-boy" polish the stanchions before reassembly. A dab of silicone-based grease on the inner seal lips (there's a brand called "syl-glyde" made specifically for it - but you don't have to use that) will also help to extend the life of your new seals. Good Luck. __________________ *Parfois, on fait pas semblant* Sometimes, it's not pretend Oderint Dum Metuant Let them hate so long as they fear политики предпочитают безоружных крестьян Politicians Prefer Unarmed Peasants Nothing to see here, Citizen. Move along now...

04-06-2010, 03:14 PM	#4
Grizzly600 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 2	Thanks Thanks for the replies so far. I have checked the sites that were suggested and it gives me a better idea on what to expect.

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