Go Back   Motorcycle Forum > Motorcycle.Com General Discussion > Motorcycle Mods and Maintenance

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 02-16-2010, 09:46 PM   #1
paolohn
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Honduras, Central America
Posts: 16
Question There's transmission fluid?!

I changed oil on my bike [a 2001 Yamaha XVS650] a week ago, but just today a friend and fellow biker told me I also needed to replace "transmission fluid" I had NO IDEA that there was also transmission fluid to be replaced! Are there any other fluids I need to be aware of? I don't want to learn through expensive mistakes!
__________________
Ridin' till the game's over
paolohn is offline   Reply With Quote

Sponsored Links Remove Advertisements
Motorcycle Forum
Advertisement
Old 02-17-2010, 04:29 AM   #2
MOKE1K
Registered Member
 
MOKE1K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kalapana, Big Island
Posts: 3,994
Default

Yes your engine oil must be changed along with your rear final drive oil or more commonly reffered to as your shaft oil. Very easy to change, hypoid gear oil is what you will need. There should be two bolts one used to drain (located underneath rear shaft final drive) one used to fill. Once it's drained completely, reinstall drain plug. Then unscrew side fill bolt and fill until oil trickles out. Your full, now reinstall fill bolt and your done.

I beleive it's 80-90weight hypoid gear oil, check the manufactures specs.
__________________
"YOU CAN'T BOLT ON SKILL"
MOKE1K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 04:40 AM   #3
Dr_Sprocket
Founding Member
 
Dr_Sprocket's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Delmarva Peninsula
Posts: 2,331
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MOKE1K View Post
Yes your engine oil must be changed along with your rear final drive oil or more commonly reffered to as your shaft oil. Very easy to change, hypoid gear oil is what you will need. There should be two bolts one used to drain (located underneath rear shaft final drive) one used to fill. Once it's drained completely, reinstall drain plug. Then unscrew side fill bolt and fill until oil trickles out. Your full, now reinstall fill bolt and your done.

I beleive it's 80-90weight hypoid gear oil, check the manufactures specs.
Moke, maybe primary oil? In my old Honda (CB700) the engine oil was the primary oil, and there was final drive hypoid oil. In my Buell, there is the engine oil and the primary oil. Perhaps his Yamaha also has a separate primary reservoir, in addition to the final drive oil?
__________________
"Aid to the helpless indigent is civilized. Aid to the irresponsible is socially corrosive." ----- Schizuki (c. 2011)
Dr_Sprocket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 05:31 AM   #4
MOKE1K
Registered Member
 
MOKE1K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kalapana, Big Island
Posts: 3,994
Default

No just the main oil, oil filter, and final drive oil or shaft oil that's it. Very easy, you don't even have to measure, just pour in until it comes out and your done. The engine oil is seperate from the shaft oil.
__________________
"YOU CAN'T BOLT ON SKILL"

Last edited by MOKE1K : 02-17-2010 at 05:36 AM.
MOKE1K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 06:37 AM   #5
A Star Ride
Registered Member
 
A Star Ride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: central Va
Posts: 1,126
Default

Speakn on fluids, and I want to clarify, Dot 4 for master cylinders and clutch reservior? And is it safe for the reservoir to not be level in operating position as long as the low fluid level is still above the hose connection?
__________________
White Trash Hick from Appalachia
A Star Ride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 08:14 AM   #6
MOKE1K
Registered Member
 
MOKE1K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kalapana, Big Island
Posts: 3,994
Cool

Quote:
Originally Posted by A Star Ride View Post
Speakn on fluids, and I want to clarify, Dot 4 for master cylinders and clutch reservior? And is it safe for the reservoir to not be level in operating position as long as the low fluid level is still above the hose connection?
Yes #3 or 4 dot only. You should never let it go below the low level in the mstr cyl. You could suck in air with the hadle bar tilted right or left and risk getting air in the system. Flushing out the complete system is very simple and requires nothing but an old oil bottle, clear tubing that will fit air tight over the bleed nipple on the calipers. Let me know if ya need help.
__________________
"YOU CAN'T BOLT ON SKILL"
MOKE1K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 08:37 AM   #7
A Star Ride
Registered Member
 
A Star Ride's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: central Va
Posts: 1,126
Default

I dont think I have a problem really just that the clutch window is dirty and I cant get a reading & with no center stand, the only way for me to verify the level it to straddle the bike & pull the lid. Bike leans so far, regardless of where I point the front tire, the reservior isnt level enough to pull the lid. I want to make sure I have everything I may need in arms reach when I do.
__________________
White Trash Hick from Appalachia
A Star Ride is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 09:38 AM   #8
seruzawa
The Toad

 
seruzawa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: 8501 ft.
Posts: 17,461
Default

A simple google search shows a downloadable service manual for the XVS650 for a whole $9.95. One of those would be a smart investment and you wouldn't need to seek advice from people who don't own or have never owned that bike.
__________________
"Make no mistake, Communism lost a big argument - one we know today as the 20th century."
seruzawa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 09:43 AM   #9
The_AirHawk
Founding Member
 
The_AirHawk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Leanin' Tower O' P-P-P-P-POWAAAAAAAAA!!!!
Posts: 11,491
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by A Star Ride View Post
I dont think I have a problem really just that the clutch window is dirty and I cant get a reading & with no center stand, the only way for me to verify the level it to straddle the bike & pull the lid. Bike leans so far, regardless of where I point the front tire, the reservior isnt level enough to pull the lid. I want to make sure I have everything I may need in arms reach when I do.
Loosen the mounting bolts, then spin it. Retighten to hold it in place.

your resevoir may have a "full line" etched/cast on the inside of it that compensates for bar angle (stock, that is).

Before bleeding, I always sponge-out the old nasty, and wipe the reservoir, then refill with clean fluid. It goes without saying you shouldn't even look at the lever when the reservoir is "empty".
__________________
Parfois, on fait pas semblant
Sometimes, it's not pretend
Oderint Dum Metuant
Let them hate so long as they fear
политики предпочитают безоружных крестьян
Politicians Prefer Unarmed Peasants
Nothing to see here, Citizen. Move along now...
The_AirHawk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2010, 10:07 AM   #10
pushrod
Founding Member
 
pushrod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Baja 'Bama
Posts: 3,642
Default

I use an old baby syringe (y'know, the big pastel pink/blue bulb-looking thing) to suck the old stuff out, then I pour new in. Then I 'bleed' the brakes (long leg first - if you have twin brakes) until I see new juice.

Don't pump it all out, of course. And squeeze and release the brake lever slowly, or else a mess will occur.
__________________
You would not understand,
this is not how I am...

I have become -
Comfortably Numb.
pushrod is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off