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Old 11-09-2009, 01:46 PM   #1
A Star Ride
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Default I need the truth on engine oil

ok I bought a 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe from origional owner with 18K miles on it among his informative history on the bike said "only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, thats all thats ever been in it". Planing my oil change I checked the book for the weight recommendation to see it stating (paraphrased) not to use additives or synthetics due to the engine oil also lubing the clutch system (hydraulic) and recommending using ONLY yamalube 10-30 (in my local climate) I went to the shop (not dealer) to get 10-30 equivalent oil to yamalube and was told car oil would mess it up but they did have motorcycle oil designed for lubing clutch & engine together synthetic or reguar. I opted for the regular (non synthetic) its cheaper and who is really gonnna crack 100K miles on a bike anyway? but they only stock 10-40 4 stoke and the guy there said "the bike wont know the difference"

My question basicaly is my bike safe with 10-40 4 stroke non synthetic oil even though it origionally ran synthetic and the weight is off (30 weight v/s 40)? any help/opinions would be great
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Old 11-09-2009, 01:52 PM   #2
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ALL RIGHT!

AN OIL THREAD! WOO-HOO!

Wait! Lemme grab my popcorn!




Seriously, look at your Owner's Manual. What does it specify? If the PO used only synthetic, stay with it.

You can go to Wal-Mart and buy automotive Mobil 1 in the weight you want. The Dealer was half correct. You cannot use 'Energy Conserving automotive oil in your bike. You can (and should) use the heavier weights, which are not EC.

Go to the Motorcycle Oil and Filters site for an exhaustive discussion of oil and filters.
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Old 11-09-2009, 02:51 PM   #3
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thanks for your input, the book states:
CAUTION

-in order to prevent clutch slipage (since the engine iol also lubricates the cutch), do not mix any chenical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality then specificated. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher.

so it dont actually say "no synthetics" but me & the 2 guys at Advance Auto both interpreted it that way. What does EC mean? another variable to further stump me lol
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Old 11-09-2009, 03:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Star Ride View Post
thanks for your input, the book states:
CAUTION

-in order to prevent clutch slipage (since the engine iol also lubricates the cutch), do not mix any chenical additives. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality then specificated. In addition, do not use oils labeled "ENERGY CONSERVING II" or higher.

so it dont actually say "no synthetics" but me & the 2 guys at Advance Auto both interpreted it that way. What does EC mean? another variable to further stump me lol
I think I can help clear up some confusion:

EC means "Energy Conserving." These oils contain an anti-friction additive that helps car engines get better mileage (or so they say). The auto version of Mobil 1 probably has the EC designation. If used in your bike, the additive can cause problems with the clutch; the clutch plates need friction to work properly.

HOWEVER: if the previous owner of your bike had any sense at all, he chose the Mobil 1 V-Twin oil, which is specifically formulated for motorcycles. They formulate the oil with your clutch and gearbox requirements in mind.

This could be a shock, but: Yamaha tries to get their vehicle buyers to use their oil. They make a BUNCH of money on it. When I had a Yamaha 2-stroke outboard, I ponied up for the Yamalube because it made me feel better when I was 50 miles offshore. I'd never buy Suzuki oil for my bike, there's just no good reason to pay the premium in my mind (but I do buy their filters for completely different reasons).
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Old 11-09-2009, 03:41 PM   #5
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This is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch so none of this mattered to me before I always used 5-10 Pennzoil in the car truck bikes and mowers cause it was the only grade that was witin acceptable range for all my stuff made sence to me.
Ill give the previous owner the benefit of the dobut that he used motorcycle grade oil due to that even after 16 years of riding I diddnt know such a thing existed until now not havig a clutch cable anymore. And the fact that with 20K miles my only shifting complaint is that sometimes its so hard to downshift I think my foot is on the highway peg not the shifter bar.
No suprise on the "rebranded" oil I think its all the same for the most part and sold primarily on fear not need. My Avalanche timer has me change the oil at about 7500-8K but any oil salesman will tell you 3K and no more. My ex-wifes Accord said change the oil at 7500 miles and only the filter at 15K. I changed both anyway (non synthetic) at 7500-8K and its still running great with 160,000 miles.....alot more miles then I could imagine puttig on my Star. That said, if the "old" oil is that good even with what some may call "lazy maintence standards" its good anough for me at 1/3 the price of synthetic. Some I saw when shoping for bikes claim the 3K milage intervals even when using synthetics. Most also had 6 year old bikes with 5K miles, lol.

Last edited by A Star Ride : 11-09-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 11-09-2009, 06:18 PM   #6
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Old 11-09-2009, 10:16 PM   #7
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we dont have them here only Advance Auto and Autozone
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:07 AM   #8
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Hydraulic or cable clutch has nothing to do with this. That's just two ways to do the same thing: move a lever down in the engine.

As for the change intervals, consider this: your car runs, on average, at about 2-3 thousand RPMs. Bikes tend to run as much as double that day to day, and most people (including me) will rev the bike higher than the car much of the time. Also, the engine oil is also the transmission oil. A 3k change interval is maximum for my bike, the car goes 5 to 7k.
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:51 AM   #9
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You should continue with the Mobile 1. It's designed to run as far as 10k miles between oil changes. If you change it at 3500 intervals you will spend a little more than the Yamalube, but your motor will "love you long time" and may even follow it up "with happy ending".
If you play it safe do the service the same as the previous owner. He probably took very good care of her before you got her.
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:29 AM   #10
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You want the truth. Any decent motorcycle oil or some diesel specifics like Rotella-T is as good as anything else. No one has any empirical data to prove otherwise. I have never heard of an oil related failure on any bike where the user used decent oil changed regularly. Unless he pushed the bike beyond reason like running an IT175 WTF open up hill for 6 miles. (Who would do that?)
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