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Old 11-10-2009, 09:18 AM   #11
doncrs
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Originally Posted by A Star Ride View Post
ok I bought a 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe from origional owner with 18K miles on it among his informative history on the bike said "only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, thats all thats ever been in it". Planing my oil change I checked the book for the weight recommendation to see it stating (paraphrased) not to use additives or synthetics due to the engine oil also lubing the clutch system (hydraulic) and recommending using ONLY yamalube 10-30 (in my local climate) I went to the shop (not dealer) to get 10-30 equivalent oil to yamalube and was told car oil would mess it up but they did have motorcycle oil designed for lubing clutch & engine together synthetic or reguar. I opted for the regular (non synthetic) its cheaper and who is really gonnna crack 100K miles on a bike anyway? but they only stock 10-40 4 stoke and the guy there said "the bike wont know the difference"

My question basicaly is my bike safe with 10-40 4 stroke non synthetic oil even though it origionally ran synthetic and the weight is off (30 weight v/s 40)? any help/opinions would be great
Try Royal Purple,they make an oil spesificly for motorcycles
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Old 11-10-2009, 06:38 PM   #12
A Star Ride
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Originally Posted by Kenneth_Moore View Post
Hydraulic or cable clutch has nothing to do with this. That's just two ways to do the same thing: move a lever down in the engine.

As for the change intervals, consider this: your car runs, on average, at about 2-3 thousand RPMs. Bikes tend to run as much as double that day to day, and most people (including me) will rev the bike higher than the car much of the time. Also, the engine oil is also the transmission oil. A 3k change interval is maximum for my bike, the car goes 5 to 7k.
I thought that a cabled clutch was of the "dry" variety and hydraulic was the "wet" clutch

I hadnt considered the difference in the RPM's and the breakdown that may cause on the oil but I dont know enough about the tramsmission sharing situation to fairly debate that

thanks for your input
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Old 11-10-2009, 06:55 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by seruzawa View Post
You want the truth. Any decent motorcycle oil or some diesel specifics like Rotella-T is as good as anything else. No one has any empirical data to prove otherwise. I have never heard of an oil related failure on any bike where the user used decent oil changed regularly. Unless he pushed the bike beyond reason like running an IT175 WTF open up hill for 6 miles. (Who would do that?)
you mean since the early 80"s Quaker State LOL but you did say "....where the used used decent oil...."
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:01 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by A Star Ride View Post
I thought that a cabled clutch was of the "dry" variety and hydraulic was the "wet" clutch

I hadnt considered the difference in the RPM's and the breakdown that may cause on the oil but I dont know enough about the tramsmission sharing situation to fairly debate that

thanks for your input
Nope, as Ken pointed-out - it's just actuation-means. IIRC, probably more "dry-type" clutches are hydraulically actuated than cable............
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