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Old 05-13-2009, 11:30 AM   #21
seruzawa
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Brass doesn't rust. Steel screws would. Brass does build up some corrosion but it is easier to remove. Brass also doesn't have the electrolytic reaction with aluminum that steel does. The culprit is the little cap the EPA forced the companies to put on the screws so you can't adjust them. This allows moisture and crud to build up in the screwhead area.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:34 AM   #22
Kenneth_Moore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfrages View Post
Since it's made out of brass the easy out's we had to use worked on one, but the other got "drilled" cause that's all the easy out did, was drill it out...
I think the FDA should make the "Easy Out" manufacturers label their product as a drug.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:43 AM   #23
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thanks for the info seruzawa, when i get them adjested al seal then with a clay so they don't get crap in them again
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:32 PM   #24
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ok, i got a new carb, set the fuel to air FINALY

it runs beautiful in the drive way, can rev it all the way up and down with no back fires. not a skip in the beat any where.

now when i went to try it on the road, i got to about 4K/9K rpms on frist gear and it suddenly just bogged down and wouldn't go any faster like a rev limiter was put in place

so i shift to second, dose same thing at about 3500

shift to 3ed i get about 3000 out of the engine and it just like somthing just halts the revs, if i pull the throttle back anymore it sounds like it's going to die right in the middle of the road, like am drowning it

is this F/A rat? or somthing else?
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:51 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfrages View Post
ok, i got a new carb, set the fuel to air FINALY

it runs beautiful in the drive way, can rev it all the way up and down with no back fires. not a skip in the beat any where.

now when i went to try it on the road, i got to about 4K/9K rpms on frist gear and it suddenly just bogged down and wouldn't go any faster like a rev limiter was put in place

so i shift to second, dose same thing at about 3500

shift to 3ed i get about 3000 out of the engine and it just like somthing just halts the revs, if i pull the throttle back anymore it sounds like it's going to die right in the middle of the road, like am drowning it

is this F/A rat? or somthing else?
Check that the fuel is flowing freely to the carb and that the air hole in the fuel tank is clear also. A plugged air hole in the gas cap will cause your problem and blockage in the fuel delivery line will cause the same thing.
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:14 PM   #26
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ok, i took off the gas cap and that helped for a monent, am going to try it again in a minte

but how do i check the fuel line/fuel fliter to the carb?

EDIT: took off the gas tnak cap and whent a few blocks, it did not make a change

Last edited by wolfrages : 06-10-2009 at 03:29 PM.
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:29 PM   #27
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Possibly a pinhole or small tear in one/both of the carb-slide diaphragms, or they're not seated properly. Or, you don't have the enrichment-circuit properly assembled and it's letting excess air into the carb air-control circuit.

Hard to diagnose these things across teh Internets..............
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:53 PM   #28
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oops forgot to mension it WAS doing this before with the other carbartor another reason i was stumped and striped the f/a screws, can't have a pin hole leak in both of them?, and what are you talking about (carb-slide diaphragms) and (enrichment-circuit) not sure what you are totaly talking about here.

i phoned up a dealer near here and he said to plug the air enrichment tubes to see if that helps?

also he suggested a bad ECU

EDIT: also the bike runs Great in the drive way, it's only when i drive off dose it start acting up
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Old 06-10-2009, 06:52 PM   #29
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Non-accel / no rev / bogging is a starving for fuel problem, not a drowning in it problem. (generally speaking)

And it is possible that both sets of carbs have diaphragm problems - but isn't likely.

You've got an air leak someplace, did you replace the carb insulator boots when you fitted the new carbs? Are you certain you've got them on securely? Are the clamps tight?

Is there any way you can throw-away that stupid-ass Hypercharger POS and put a stock air-cleaner assembly on it, so it will run right?
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Last edited by The_AirHawk : 06-10-2009 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:16 PM   #30
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al check the (rubber hoses) on the bottem of the carb to see if one came lose(carb insulator boots?)

sorry, i don't have the orignal parts.
i had bought it the way it is now :/ kind of wishing i didn't but i guess it's what i get for my frist buy

EDIT: ok checked the rubber hoses comeing out of the bottem of the carb, yes they are al the way on right to the very base wall of the carb so i don't think it's cause they are lose, if you guys are hell bent that it's an air leak/ fuel stavation problem, al check all of this but you guys have to tell me how...

1 not sure how to check if fuel/fuel filter is cloged

2 am not sure how to test for air leaks, just feel around? or use a colored spray? not sure what's best here

Last edited by wolfrages : 06-10-2009 at 07:24 PM.
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