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Old 05-23-2011, 10:53 PM   #51
Kevin_Duke
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I did get the helmet on...
Baby steps...
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:06 AM   #52
Morbo the Destroyer
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If I just nail the throttle in 1st it will spin the rear tire. If I give it the on/off/ON with the throttle the front end comes right up. It hooks up pretty good...
]
What is your 1/4 mile ET?
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Old 05-24-2011, 01:41 PM   #53
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What is your 1/4 mile ET?
It ran 11.96 in 100 degree heat and 90% humidity back in August 2009 when it was 104 cubic inches and made 118 HP/122 TQ.

Haven't run it yet since the stroker crank and new cams went in it. The drag calculator says the new package will run 11.32 @ 122 mph. There's a race on Sunday, June 26th, so we'll see.

Do you drag race?
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110" Stroker/Big bore
126 HP/134 TQ -- SAE
11.63 @ 115 mph -- 1/4 mile
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Old 05-24-2011, 05:44 PM   #54
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It ran 11.96 in 100 degree heat and 90% humidity back in August 2009 when it was 104 cubic inches and made 118 HP/122 TQ.

Haven't run it yet since the stroker crank and new cams went in it. The drag calculator says the new package will run 11.32 @ 122 mph. There's a race on Sunday, June 26th, so we'll see.

Do you drag race?
Myself not being a performance buff, but I am curious Larry. What's your total out of pocket on your ride?
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:42 PM   #55
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Myself not being a performance buff, but I am curious Larry. What's your total out of pocket on your ride?
That's kinda personal, isn't it?

I paid $10,583 out the door for the bike (used with 1500 miles). It definitely got where it is the hard way... built the motor twice, bought 3 exhaust systems, 2 FI controllers, 2 airboxes... so I spent $11,000 on this long journey, for a total of $21,583. Remember, I rode it 50K miles and then completely rebuilt the engine and trans.

BUT, if you started with a bone stock 2007 Victory and followed my build sheet to the letter, you could duplicate what I have for $7000. Including all engine work, head work, balance/blueprint, improved oiling, gearing change, exhaust, airbox, fuel conroller, rev limiter bump, PC III, and even the tach... with ALL labor, parts, break-in, and dyno tune rolled into that cost. That's CHEAP.

If you start with a newer 106" Victory it would cost around $5000 (it already has the stroker crank in it, no need to split the cases). The results will be a bit less because the late model heads are not as good, but you could also take it to 114" or 116" big bore to make up the difference.

Something else: This is a mild motor built for a street ridden bagger and to run on 92 octane pump gas. This little 110" motor with more compression, more headwork, bigger than stock valves, and more radical cams will make easily make 170 reliable horsepower, but it would suck as a street motor.
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Victory Kingpin
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126 HP/134 TQ -- SAE
11.63 @ 115 mph -- 1/4 mile

Last edited by Larry : 05-24-2011 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:46 PM   #56
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It is all about the journey isn't it? Cool thing is, you have an awesome bike and have learned a ton along the way. If I ever do get one of these down the road, I will seek out guys like you for advice.

As for me, I recently bought a Husaberg FE450 dirt bike. Learned a lot over the 'net from the experiences of others. This has helped me greatly in setting up my bike. Gotta love those willing to share hard won knowledge
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Old 05-24-2011, 08:43 PM   #57
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That's kinda personal, isn't it?

I paid $10,583 out the door for the bike (used with 1500 miles). It definitely got where it is the hard way... built the motor twice, bought 3 exhaust systems, 2 FI controllers, 2 airboxes... so I spent $11,000 on this long journey, for a total of $21,583. Remember, I rode it 50K miles and then completely rebuilt the engine and trans.

BUT, if you started with a bone stock 2007 Victory and followed my build sheet to the letter, you could duplicate what I have for $7000. Including all engine work, head work, balance/blueprint, improved oiling, gearing change, exhaust, airbox, fuel conroller, rev limiter bump, PC III, and even the tach... with ALL labor, parts, break-in, and dyno tune rolled into that cost. That's CHEAP.

If you start with a newer 106" Victory it would cost around $5000 (it already has the stroker crank in it, no need to split the cases). The results will be a bit less because the late model heads are not as good, but you could also take it to 114" or 116" big bore to make up the difference.

Something else: This is a mild motor built for a street ridden bagger and to run on 92 octane pump gas. This little 110" motor with more compression, more headwork, bigger than stock valves, and more radical cams will make easily make 170 reliable horsepower, but it would suck as a street motor.
Thanks for your reply and honesty, but I realize it isnt about the money but something you enjoy. I don't have a knack for ideas like that or the patience to try it even if I had a guranteed plan laid out for me. Your trial is at $7K and error at $4K, I don't think that is bad especially assuming some of the current works weren't available when you spent the first dollar.
I have a friend with an 86 Ford Ranger show truck bought new & "retired" it a couple years ago spent far more then that in stereo equipment alone. Has a house full of trophies & stacks of photo albums & memories to last a lifetime, but I couldnt see myself getting that involved (obsessed) in anything like that.
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:28 AM   #58
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Thanks for your reply and honesty, but I realize it isnt about the money but something you enjoy.
If you look on CycleTrader there are always low mileage 2007 Victory bikes that you can buy for $8500, and you can ship a bike anywhere in the US for $500. You can have the basic big bore w/headwork done (complete/tuned/ready to ride) for around $5000. So for a total investment of around $14,000 ($2500 less than MSRP was) you could be on a Victory that's like new and makes 125/128 at the rear wheel with a torque curve that looks like a table top.

You are correct... A lot of what I learned during this journey was unknown a couple of years ago. There was no data on which pipes were best and some of the parts were not even thought of when I had the first motor built. NOW the data is available and the good parts are too. You would save all that "learning curve" crap.
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110" Stroker/Big bore
126 HP/134 TQ -- SAE
11.63 @ 115 mph -- 1/4 mile
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:38 AM   #59
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As for me, I recently bought a Husaberg FE450 dirt bike
Recently got back into dirt riding on a little 125. It's a hoot! As soon as one of my grandsons can reach the ground off the 125 they can have it and I'll get something with more balls. I rode a couple of KTM 450s when I was working at the dealership and MAN! they ROCK!

My baby granson spent a lot of time with me this past weekend (he's almost two) and now he says "Traction is over-rated"... LMAO
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:12 AM   #60
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You are correct... A lot of what I learned during this journey was unknown a couple of years ago. There was no data on which pipes were best and some of the parts were not even thought of when I had the first motor built. NOW the data is available and the good parts are too. You would save all that "learning curve" crap.
Had you not worked so hard on it & had to figure it all out you wouldn't likely enjoy it as much. And I'm sure the aftermarket parts that didn't make the final cut had some resale value.
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