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Old 04-02-2010, 10:12 AM   #1
schizuki
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All ready for my first ride of the season, and the Bandit gets hinky when I'm installing the battery. No juice, then juice when I loosen the negative lead, then a click and no juice when I re-install after burnishing the contact points.

Finally get juice, get her started, and she's running like crap. Had the carbs cleaned last year after our stupid new ethanol gas crudded them up. Switched to bootlegged New Hampshire gas and put Sta-Bil for ethanol gas in the tank over the winter just to be sure. Now they sound dirty again.

I threw some carb cleaner in the tank and let it run a little more. I'll let it sit and try again tomorrow. I realize the odds that will help are about 100,000,000-to-1, but I really, REALLY hate dismounting the carbs. Takes three tiny hands to get the cables hooked on.

Meh. It's due for a 12,000 mile service, I think. Maybe I'll limp it to a different shop and have them do it.

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Old 04-02-2010, 10:57 AM   #2
sarnali2
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Hey if this sh*t was easy anyone could do it. My Bandit had Stabil in it for about 3 years when I bought it, it took a couple of tank fulls to get it completely cleaned out but the bike ran OK. Maybe it just needs to clear it's throat a little.

If you haven't checked the valves yet this might be the time, they're screw and locknut so not too hard plus you can toss in some new plugs while you're at it. While the tank and everything is off it's easier to get to the carbs at least.......

I'd try putting the pet-tallywhacker in the prime position, open the float bowl drain and letting it flush for a bit while gentley tapping on the carb with a hammer and flat drift punch, that's worked for me before if it's crud under the float valve.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:41 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarnali2 View Post
Hey if this sh*t was easy anyone could do it. My Bandit had Stabil in it for about 3 years when I bought it, it took a couple of tank fulls to get it completely cleaned out but the bike ran OK. Maybe it just needs to clear it's throat a little.

If you haven't checked the valves yet this might be the time, they're screw and locknut so not too hard plus you can toss in some new plugs while you're at it. While the tank and everything is off it's easier to get to the carbs at least.......

I'd try putting the pet-tallywhacker in the prime position, open the float bowl drain and letting it flush for a bit while gentley tapping on the carb with a hammer and flat drift punch, that's worked for me before if it's crud under the float valve.
Thanks for the advice, Sarnali. If I understand correctly, it sounds like the idea is to do the tapping while the float bowls are draining? Could I do this repeatedly by putting the petoneeyedtrousersnake on On to refill them, then back to Prime before draining?

PS - how do you like my holla-back sig?
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:58 AM   #4
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Very clever sig, there's supposed to be a new Ridd i c k film on the horizon...


Yes, you put the petmassivehairyschlonger on prime then it's just an open valve, in the On position engine vacuum holds the valve open so the bike has to be running. The idea of course is to knock loose any grit or dirt and allow the gas to flush it out, it may or may not work but it's usually worth a try. I use a non-sparking aluminum drift myself for obvious reasons.

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Old 04-02-2010, 01:35 PM   #5
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Here's what use to work on my Honda 55 Super Cub: Get the bike up to about 35 miles an hour, then downshift into first, while closing the choke flappers. The resulting increased vaccum sucks all the crud out of the jets, and you're all set. Of course on the 55 it would bend the pushrods too, but a handy brick took care of that. Rotsa ruck yankee boy.
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