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tonyharrah 05-25-2004 10:11 PM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
Kpaul makes WAY too much money to waste his time getting his hands all covered in oil. It makes those 15lb dumbbells hard to hold on to. Let the flunkies do it!

Great article, though. How many of you use full-on synthetic in your bikes? At what mileage did you start?

Oh, and:

First Post!


Nplateau 05-26-2004 01:19 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
Yossef once again serves up the ace. Though I'm not quite sure I'm ready to take that plunge just yet. But then again...

Hey, here's a dumb question, but one I must ask... Most of our bikes come with some basic tools, but is there a more comprehensive tool kit on the market that serves a motorcyclist's needs? I was at Costco of all places, and I saw all kinds of tool kits, but I wasn't sure which one would be of best use. Any suggestions?

IceWorm 05-26-2004 03:12 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
I have had numerous BMWs, both R and K bikes. New filters for those bikes often came with a new crush washer for the drain plug. If there was no washer in the filter box the parts guy would offer one for a nominal price. More recently I have been riding Japanese motorcycles and have yet to see a crush washer in the filter box nor has any Japanese dealer parts guy ever offered one. I did not see any reference to crush washers in your how to article. Do Japanese crush washers not need replacing? They do exist. My

DL 1000 has one, so did my VFR800, and my KLR 650.

Anyway I would recommend paying close attention to the crush washer when removing the oil drain plug. These little boogers tend to stick to the bottom of the crankcase and can then fall into the oil while the slippery stuff is draining out. If this happens and you don't notice the washer is gone you might install the drain plug sans crush washer which is not a good idea.

longride 05-26-2004 03:18 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
2 biggest no-no's when changing oil. Don't tighten the oil filter too much. Hand tight is just fine. Using a filter wrench to crank it on hard will result in major problems getting it loose later. Second is overtightening the drain bolt. Strip that baby and tears will flow. If you don't have a torque wrench, then a light snugging works just fine for a drain bolt. Most guys that start out working on their bikes like to tighten things way more than is needed and end up causing major problems. I agree that everyone should do this job, just for that peace of mind that it was actually done right.

r1der 05-26-2004 03:33 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
Wow, maybe you could show us how to start a motorcycle next - LOL, j/k.

Since you have to safety wire the drain plug, filler and filter for the track (and one can of wire lasts a lifetime) I do it to all my vehicles.

You never have to worry about drain plugs vibrating out.


SRMark 05-26-2004 03:47 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
Some useful tips here. But I pity to boob who doesn't know how to change his own oil or is too stupid to figure it out with out guidance. I guess there are lotsa newbies out there and failing to change the oil is a good way to kill a new engine. Doing it wrong is a good way to kill a bike and yourself. But owning a bike used to be an exercise in rugged self-reliance and having to read a "how-to" on oil changing seems a bit sissified. Yes, "how-tos" are self reliant activities but some things you should just figure out on your own.

On an upbeat note, with the economy in the tank and gas prices not allowing you put anything in the tank, this is a good way to save a few bucks. Toward that end, keep the "how tos" coming.

sarnali 05-26-2004 05:10 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
After the first oil change I've been using my own blend of 1/2 Castrol 10w40 GTX and half Castrol 10w40 Syn-tec for years with good results, It's fairly cheap and I KNOW it's 50/50 synthetic, instead of "a synthetic blend" I change the oil and filter every 3k anyway so it's not a big deal.

I've used full-on motorcycle oil and straight car oil and from my experiance and everything I've read there doesn't seem to be any differance, just stick to non-energy conserving oil like 10w40 or 15w50 Interestingly enough my bike shifted poorly on Mobil MX4T also, however with plain Mobil 1 10w40 it shifted fine.

The only thing I don't like to do is valve adjustments, poor close-up vision, big hands and 16 itty-bitty valve shims doesn't make a fun afternoon. Everything else is cake and pie

anrajala 05-26-2004 05:27 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
Here is a time-honoured 4-step oil change:

1. take the old oil out

2. put the new oil in

3. have a beer

4. try to think how you could get laid

- cruiz-euro

James_Brown 05-26-2004 05:32 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
I started out out with a ratchet, deep well and regular sockets (8-18mm) a set of combination wrenches in the same sizes and a set of T-handle hex drivers. I bought all of these at Sears. I then filled in with a 10" crescent wrench, some vise-grips and several screwdrivers. These tools will allow you to do about 90% of the basic maintenance tasks and beyond that, you just slowly fill in for the specific needs of your bike. As far as oil changes, I bought an oil filter wrench for my Ducati for around $10.

If you want to go all out, this website has one man's (a Ducati owner, but the suggestions should fit all bikes) version of a comprehensive tool set:

If you are looking for packable tools that will cover most needs, Cruz tools has some nice sets:

ValknMag 05-26-2004 05:37 AM

Re: How-To Change Your Oil
CBR1100XX message boards were stressing the importance of a new crush washer with every oil change, so I just picked up a dozen or so at the dealer for some nominal amount. I would be much happier if the washers came with the filter...the only thing I wonder about is, the dealer had 2 sizes of washer and had to see which size I needed. The same filter fit my Magna as goes on my Valkyrie and XX, so is it the same size drain bolt/crush washer for these bikes as well?

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