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Old 01-24-2008, 10:57 AM   #51
ejis
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The 250 is small - but that's not a bad thing for your first bike. It's still a "real" motorcycle. There are many great bikes to start out on in the 250 - 650cc range (look at any of the threads in this section for a list...) Also, for $1700, you can buy it, ride it for a while, and sell it for a minimal (if any) loss.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:48 AM   #52
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Default ninja 250/sv650

I started with a ninja 250 and I loved it. Keep in mind that the ninja250 does 0-60 in 5.5 seconds (faster than most sportscars except for the truly expensive ones over 60k for example), so it's no slouch.

Lucky for me my wife was interested in riding so I bought an sv650 within 6 months and gave her the 250, and I loved it even more.

I'm not certain I would recommend an sv650 out the door but then again 6 months isn't that long for an upgrade if you're a college student, you don't have money to throw around buying new bikes all the time.

However, it's a huge difference in power; I was scared of the sv when transitioning. My friend who rides a cruiser and had ridden for years swapped bikes with me for a ride, and at the first stoplight he wheelied accidentally, stoppied out of panic, and dropped it on its side.

The sv650 will lift the front tire up in first gear if you accelerate incorrectly (or correctly, depending on your intent) which is not to say that you will loop it but it's tough to steer on one wheel.

I would NOT go with a 4 cylinder race replica like the other two you mentioned. They seem slow at low RPM's (well, earlier models did) which can trick beginners into thinking they're no big deal, and then you slip up and hit 15000+ rpms and the front wheel is in the air. The r6 will go over 80mph in 1st gear, the f4i slightly less. Ask yourself, do you want to learn to ride on a bike that can get you thrown in jail for reckless driving on the highway, even if you can keep the front wheel down, while never leaving 1st gear?
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:35 PM   #53
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Originally Posted by seruzawa View Post
The AirHawk should be along soon to set you straight on what a fancy boy poof bike the ZX14 is.
Ah, I see my Reputation has preceded me; much like the Delicate Aroma of a Wild Rose............
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:50 PM   #54
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Default Just Say No!!!

So, you've decided to get into riding- good. Bad timing- no. Deals are everywhere. What to buy- NOT a sportbike.
1- never listen to your friends- most are squids and have no concept of rational thought.
2- once you've obtained your MSF card- buy used.
3- don't spend more than $2500 because you will find a way to break it within the first 6 wks.
4- Stick with your instincts and stay in the 250/500 cc range.

Really, if you have to spend more than $2500 buy a used DRZ400SM and ride the crap out of it for the first year- 5000 miles minimum. That will prepare you for your future as a responsible motorcyclist.

BTW- once you're done with the MSF course find an "off-road" class, too. You'll be glad you did.
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:44 PM   #55
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Hey guys thanks so much for the info. I'm gonna take the MSF class in about two weeks and go from there. I think I'm gonna go with the Ninja to practice on for a few months. On monday, I'm going straight to the financial aid office to pull out a student loan. I'll be in debt but hey, at least i'll be riding right? Just a sacrifice to do what I really want to do. Thanks guys!
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Old 01-24-2008, 04:03 PM   #56
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You won't regret it! I'd love to have a little Ninja and I've been riding for (um . . . counts on fingers) 22 years or so.
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:10 PM   #57
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Hey guys thanks so much for the info. I'm gonna take the MSF class in about two weeks and go from there. I think I'm gonna go with the Ninja to practice on for a few months. On monday, I'm going straight to the financial aid office to pull out a student loan. I'll be in debt but hey, at least i'll be riding right? Just a sacrifice to do what I really want to do. Thanks guys!
Dont forget to add about a grand for gear to the loan. Though with good shopping you could be decked out for about $500 and still have some decent gear. But factor it in!!! If thats too much money, price a skin graft.
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Old 01-24-2008, 08:11 PM   #58
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Dont forget to add about a grand for gear to the loan. Though with good shopping you could be decked out for about $500 and still have some decent gear. But factor it in!!! If thats too much money, price a skin graft.
... on getting gear. Full face helmet, armored riding jacket ,pants, boots, gloves. Save up and buy a mesh jacket for the summer. Wear the gear all the time. Don't listen to anyone who says you don't have to. Anyone who says that is either a fool or someone who hates you. Maybe after you become proficient you can decide what not to wear, but while you are learning wearing the stuff is beyond important. It's double secret important!
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Old 01-25-2008, 03:52 PM   #59
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Default Saftey Gear

I know I mentioned that I had all the info on the saftey gear, but as a beginner I really don't. I have read up on some brands and styles but I want to hear from you guys, the experienced riders. So if you guys can list your opinions on what you think is good gear, let me know why you would choose that particular brand/style. I wanna know details more along the line with what you have experienced with it, not so much from what I can read in advertisements.

Start with:

Helmet

Jacket

Gloves

Shoes

Pants

Accessories

Thanks again guys, I enrolled for the MSF training and I go in on the 9th!
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Old 01-25-2008, 04:31 PM   #60
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Well, that's a big order. Everyone has their preferences, and not every brand will fit every body (or head.) Plus $$$ comes into play, and the weather you are going to ride in. I'm in San Diego for example, so I use perforated leather almost all year round I can get a bit cold in it this time of year, but it works perfectly the rest of the year (including desert summers.)

Jacket and pants: armored leather is the best way to go for all-around protection. I don't know what your weather is like, but you also may want to go for perf'ed leather for summer riding. Or, get unperf'ed for winter and then get armored mesh gear for summer. Keep in mind, NO mesh gear will have the protection of leather.

Brands for pants and jackets are not too important, BUT look at the weight and quality of the leather and of the stitching. You do NOT want to get "fashion weight" leather, because it will not offer any protection in a fall. You should be looking for leather that is 1.2-1.4 mm thick. Heavy stuff! Look at various pieces and you'll pick up the difference quickly.

Helmets: Get a FULL FACE helmet that has a DOT approval. Snell approval may or may not be better, so don't worry too much about it. The key to helmets is to find one that fits and is comfortable enough so you'll want to wear it.

Gloves - you want leather, with extra armor on the palm and on other potential strike points, such as on the back of your fingers. There are a dozen excellent brands for not that much money. Make sure they fit and are comfortable.

Shoes: You want BOOTS. Boots that go above the ankle (imagine your exposed ankles being ground down on the cement and you can understand why you want BOOTS.) It's best to get boots that have plastic armor around the heel and the ankle bones as well. Again, there are a dozen good companies that make boots.

Accessories: A nice purse can really set off your outfit. Plus a bangle or two, very striking!
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