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Old 05-20-2011, 01:24 PM   #1
eorose
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Default '85 Magna Tank Fuel Filter

Hey all -

I'm working on the fuel system and nothing is coming out of the tank. I removed the pet**** and it is functioning fine. Even with the pet**** removed, fuel is not coming out of the tank. I have a gallon of fuel in the tank right now. Any idea what could be blocking it and how to resolve it?

The diagram of the tank in the Clymer manual shows a "fuel filter" inside the tank, though no way of removing this filter. However none of the online parts stores show this filter in any of their diagrams.

I stuck a screwdriver up there and there is definitely something there, metal. I'm guessing there's just some kind of slotted cylinder to keep big pieces of junk out.

So my question is, does anyone know how to remove or clean whatever is there inside the tank?

Thanks
Eric
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:37 PM   #2
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The filter should have been attached to the petschvanstuka (this site hates the word "pet****"). Usually, it looks like a skeletonized plastic tube with a fine-mesh plastic screen. I suggest that, perhaps you don't yet have all the petweiner out?

It's really hard to diagnose these things across teh Inturnetz.
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Old 05-20-2011, 01:41 PM   #3
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The pet-peter is completely off, but it does look like something is broke off inside of it. But there's nothing moving around inside the tank, and nothing INSIDE the tank looks broken. I can try and post pictures tonight, but we're talking about a very small space obviously so not sure what I can accomplish.
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:36 PM   #4
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Here are the images:







Any ideas?
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:38 PM   #5
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Sorry for the size...
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:18 PM   #6
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No problem on size. That "center" piece (the inner-most ring that is even with the bottom of the boss - leaving the two outer-most rings in place) needs to come out. If you'll observe closely, you can see it is separate from the fuel-boss it's essentially "sitting in". It appears to be somewhat rusted in-place, but that's your problem right there. Essentially what I was imagining - the petschlong "came apart". Although it's been awhile since I had an '80s Honda one apart - that piece IIRC sorta "floats" between the valve and a flange in the boss, and seals-up when you tighten the nut.

Do you have an "EZ Out" that would fit the ID of this? If not, perhaps just banging-in a large flat-blade screwdriver (Uhm, not hard-enough to cause any sparks, Mmm-Kay?), and giving it a twist. Or even just givin' the boss a good rap with a soft-face hammer (don't beat the boss down into the tank) might be enough to dislodge it. Please don't kill yourself in a fiery explosion getting it out (it can happen easier than you think - I've a friend that spent 4 months in the hospital from an explosion that occured removing the tank from an old car in his driveway).

Anyway - if you can get the rust to let it go, it should essentially almost fall out. Avoid damage as much as possible to all these parts - I doubt they're available, as a cursory examination of a couple of onlline parts-dealers shows "DISCONTINUED" on many, many parts.

Once all THAT is out - the rust is coming from inside the tank. De-rusting and coating it to prevent further corrosion will be your next priority. There are several available solutions, from Kreem to a Por15 fueltank-specific product, to ..... another one I cannot recall at the moment..... (someone will chime in with the name, I bet)

I WILL comment that, should you decide to use the Kreem - it is IMPERATIVE that you follow the instructions to the LETTER. If not, you will be less-than-satisfied with the results. I've got one tank that's had Kreem in it for 13 years now, so the problems people report are not caused by an incapable product.
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Old 05-20-2011, 11:41 PM   #7
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Air Hawk, you rock my world.

I do not have the EZ out, but I think I can finagle something. I've pulled the fuel level sensor out of the tank and opened the cap, so I'm letting the whole thing air out. I had your same thought: spark + fuel tank = bad. So i'm going to let that air out a bit and then take a crack at it with a chisel (screwdriver) and a hammer. I was thinking the very innermost ring, way up in there, was the one I wanted to move. But from what you're saying, it's ring #3 (numbering from the outside inward) that I want to dislodge, correct? Worst case is I bang it into the tank and I have to shake it out one end or the other.

Thanks a million. I'll also look into the anti-rust products. I wasn't aware they existed, but that will be a huge help.

Seriously, REALLY appreciate your help. I've really enjoyed this project so far. Of course, haven't gotten to the carbs yet. Not sure what they're going to need yet, cause I haven't gotten it to start on anything but starting fluid. ADVENTURE! I also know I have clutch and brake work to do, since I have a caliper stuck in the front and i had to replace the master clutch cylinder. Wee!!
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eorose View Post
I'll also look into the anti-rust products. I wasn't aware they existed, but that will be a huge help.
Often the best tank rust solution is just an oversized fuel filter, with a paper or ceramic element (not a screen) that gets changed regularly.
Along with cleaning out whatever loose particles you can from the tank, that is.

I think that a tank liner treatment this early in your project might not be a prudent thing to do.

AND if the rust inside is REALLY bad, searching for a replacement tank might be better.......as tanks sometimes do rust through and leak.
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:42 AM   #9
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Maybe I've just been lucky, but in my 17 years owning motorcycles, I have NEVER used the pet peter other then to go to reserve. I never turned fuel off & never have had idle/carb/choke problems Honda, Kawi & now Yam.
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Old 05-21-2011, 11:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Easy Rider 2 View Post
I think that a tank liner treatment this early in your project might not be a prudent thing to do.

AND if the rust inside is REALLY bad, searching for a replacement tank might be better.......as tanks sometimes do rust through and leak.
Good point. I offered advice on the assumption the bike is essentially close to street-capable, but for the fueling problem.
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