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Old 05-07-2011, 10:53 AM   #1
Margo Harvey
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Unhappy Wont start after Winter

My ex was the repairman and now I have a problem. After the winter my Shadow sabre 1100 wouldnt start. I drained the tank (gas looked clean) added new gas and SEAFOAM. After many attempts it will start and idyl for like 20 seconds before dying. If I try to give it gas or turn off choke it dies instantly. What do I try now?
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Old 05-07-2011, 12:24 PM   #2
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After many attempts it will start and idyl for like 20 seconds before dying. If I try to give it gas or turn off choke it dies instantly. What do I try now?
I've got no problem with the previous answer but let me throw out a possible alternative to a manual cleaning of the carb(s).

When you drained the tank, did you also drain the float bowls ??
If the bike has a fuel filter, did you change that ??

Seafoam is NOT a really good, heavy duty carb cleaner.....although it works in many situations.

So, I suggest draining the tank and the float bowls again and putting in one gallon of gas along with 2-3 ounces of Berrymans B12 Chemtool carb cleaner. Then if you can nurse it to life with some spray carb cleaner or stating fluid in the air box long enough to run 15-20 seconds.......and then leave it sit overnight, along with a prayer or two, the odds are good that it will do better the next day. And then after running it long enough to get warm.......and letting it sit overnight again......it might be as good as new; might.

When it starts running a lot better, then fill up the gas tank and ride to finish the cleaning process.

No guarantee that this will work but it will only cost you about $3 and an hour or so of your time to try......and might save you $100 or more to have someone else manually clean the carbs.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:11 PM   #3
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OK, Once I figure out how to drain the bowl, I'll try the chemtool; but that is about the limit of technical ability. If that should fail I will haul it to the shop. Thank you both for the advice.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:23 PM   #4
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Ma'am, if your ex did all the repairs around the house, do yourself a favor and take the bike to the shop. Unless you've been spinning wrenches with your Dad and bros for years, you can do more harm than good by taking your carbs apart.

Probably be a couple hundred tops, and you'll get it done right.

My $.02.
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Old 05-07-2011, 06:26 PM   #5
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To drain the carb bowls, there's a drain screw at the bottom-most part, some actually remove the bowl itself & the screw remains attached to the body rather then removing alltogether. I have very limited experience whth this compared to most on here who may have better advice for you. Just remove the screw from the bottom & be ready to either catch the spill, or balance the carb bowl, either way you'll get that old gas out of there.
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Old 05-08-2011, 06:31 AM   #6
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OK, Once I figure out how to drain the bowl, I'll try the chemtool;
If you figured out how to gracefully drain the tank, this should be duck soup.

On the very bottom of each carb there should be a drain/overflow stub sticking down. It may have a hose connected to it but probably not. At the top of that stub, there should be a brass screw; that is the drain "valve". Opening it about half way should do the trick. Of course, be prepared to catch the 2 OZ or so that will come out. It's easier with a little length of hose attached......or held in place if the hose is too big.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:37 AM   #7
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I would suggest not messing with the carbs. It's too easy to screw things up (pun intended).

Find a motorcycle mechanic via your local craigslist, get references, call them to confirm the mechanic knows what he's doing, and then have your local mechanic check your bike out. A shop will charge $85+ an hour. Your local mechanic will charge $50 or less.

I found a local motorcycle mechanic who charges less than the shops and is actually a better mechanic than most of those at the shops, too.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:52 PM   #8
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I agree with the last Reply. Shops love to gouge and not to be sexist but they will laugh and plan for their childrens college educations when they begin to work on your bike.
But when going with a back yard guy, make a contract and make sure he doesn't go over his quote for any reason unless he asks for your permission. You're the boss and don't let anybody walk over you.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:43 AM   #9
Margo Harvey
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Wink Still trying

Hi ya'l here is latest on my DIY repair attempt. I have drained the bowls and opened up carb screw so it WILL idle long term. The engine Is idling vigorously now, but will still stall when I give it gas. My plan now is to burn off all the SEAFOAM treated gas in the tank then try Berrymans B12 Chemtool. My next task will be to FIND the fuel filter and deal with that. But I am guessing the the filter isn't the problem. I started the bike with bowl screws out and plenty of fuel gushed out. If the gas passes through the filter to reach the bowls???? This would mean the filter is clear???? Right????

Last edited by Margo Harvey : 05-14-2011 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:53 PM   #10
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The engine Is idling vigorously now, but will still stall when I give it gas.

This would mean the filter is clear???? Right????
What are you doing with the choke during this test ??
The choke must remain ON until the bike warms up.........NOT just until it starts. And your final idle speed is set with the engine warm and the choke off.

Good plan with the B12 but draining would be much faster.
For the first treatment, use about twice the recommendation; that would be about 2 OZ per gallon, I think. So 2 OZ in one gallon would be good.

I think it is fair to assume at this point that the fuel like (or filter) is not badly plugged up.
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